“Three amazing south face ‘directisimas’ exclusively available with the AE leaders who opened routes in 1995 and 1996 in the Cordillera Real ”
Difficulty grades in CLIMB: FR:D-D+/USA:AI 3/SCOT:III. ROCK: UIAA V, USA 5.7, FR 5
  You can enlarge
the pictures
  Sun Island, Pilkokaina (P. Barrón)  
  Trekking in Chacaltaya (J. Villarroel)  
  Approach to the glacier in HP (J. Villarroel)  
  Pacokeuta summit (J. Villarroel)  
  Technical climb in AD and D- (P. Barrón)  
  Wila Lloje summit (J. Villarroel)  
  Llamas carrying our luggage (P. Barrón)  
  Killibirti summit (J. Villarroel)  
6 nights camping
8 nights in hotels and lodges
2 days trekking

This trip has been devised and inspired with the adventurers of the new century in mind; those adventurers with strong character who are always looking to do the most exciting. Since 1990 Juan Villarroel has climbed restlessly in Bolivia. He and some friends have opened 4 straightforward routes in the Cordillera Real: In 1992 he opened the Directisima Gabarrou/Villarroel on the Southwest face of the Illampu in collaboration with the renowned French guide Patrick Gabarrou; In 1995 he opened the Directisima Transcontinental on the South face of Pacokeuta Peak with the climbers Shoemaker, Perez and Mottram; In 1995 he opened the Directisima on the South face of the Killibirti peak with the Dutch Harold Shoemaker; and finally in 1996 he opened the South face route in Wila Lloje peak with the English Lindsay Griffin and Dave Liddall. These routes are described in guide books and magazines. Now Juan Villarroel and his staff offer an unmissable climbing trip to go and tackle the summits of Killibirti, Pacokeuta and Wila Lloje. A reasonable level of experience in icefall climb skills and winter climbing experience is required. This trip is an incredible mix of sport, culture, friendship and fraternity. Before attempting to this trio we will acclimatize beside the Lake Titikaka and hike on Sun Island. Additionally we will undergo a full alpine skills review on steep-angled ice slopes on the glaciers of Huayna Potosi.


DAY 1: ARRIVE LA PAZ. Reception and transfer to the hotel.

DAY 2: DRIVE TO COPACABANA & LAKE TITIKAKA. A series of cultural highlights to visit en route. Superb view of Cordillera Real. By boat we go to Sun Island to find unique traditions and folklore. Lodge.

DAY 3: HIKE ON SUN ISLAND. Archaeological remains and traditional hamlets. Return to Copacabana. Hotel.

Day 4: DISCOVER COPACABANA & RETURN TO LA PAZ. Visit indigenous markets, streets, viewpoints and the church of Copacabana. Return to La Paz. Hotel.

DAY 5: CHACALTAYA AND PLATFORM ZONGO. Classical Haute Route hike. Refuge. Sublime view of snowy peaks.

DAY 6: ALPINE SKILLS REVIEW & RETURN TO LA PAZ. Training in the glaciers of Huayna Potosi. Return to La Paz. Hotel.

DAY 7: TO PACOKEUTA. Car transfer and camp.

DAY 8: CLIMB PACOKEUTA: 5589 m /18336 ft high. South face direct route-Transcontinental route. Difficulty grade: FR: D-/USA: AI 3/SCOT: III. Average slope angle: 55º. 6 hour climb.

DAY 9: CLIMB WILA LLOJE. 5596 m/ 18360 ft high. South face route. Difficulty grade: FR: D+/USA: AI 3/SCOT: III. Average slope angle: 55º, 60º,65º. 8 hour climb.

DAY 10: TO LLOCO LLOCONI. Car transfer and camp.

DAY 11: TO KILLIBIRTI. Trek and camp.

DAY 12: CLIMB KILLIBIRTI. 5350 m/17552 ft high. Directisima south face route. Difficulty grade: FR: D-/USA: AI 3/SCOT: III. ROCK: UIAA V, USA 5.7, FR 5. Average slope angle: 55º, 60º,65º.7 hour climb.

DAY 13: TO LLOCO LLOCONI & RETURN TO LA PAZ. Trek and car transfer to La Paz.


DAY 15: DEPART LA PAZ. Transfer to the airport. End of our package service.

BRING: anorak, sleeping bag, polar jacket, down jacket, bonnet, thermal underwear, mountain glasses, head torch, sun block, sun hat, mountain gloves, technical climbing equipment.